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Learning
about the French Quarter
by
David Friedman / February 15, 2008
This
is the fourth time that I have covered NBA All-Star Weekend and
each time represented the first time that I had visited the host
city. In Denver
(2005) I immediately noticed the fresh air and beautiful mountain
skyline. Houston
(2006) made an instant impression by virtue of its sheer physical
size. Las Vegas (2007) has the glitz and the glamour, the landscape
dotted with gaudy hotel/casinos. The first sensation I experienced
in New
Orleans was a wonderful aroma of food in the airport; I’m
not sure what was being cooked but whatever it was smelled great.
The newest flavors
that have been added to the city are huge posters/billboards promoting
All-Star Weekend. One of them features Kevin
Garnett and the tagline, “Basketball is a brotherhood.”
During the shuttle
ride to the Marriott we did not see many signs of the devastation
that Hurricane Katrina wrought upon this city, partially because
of the rebuilding efforts that have taken place since then and partially
because we did not travel through the most afflicted areas. We passed
by some of New Orleans’ famous cemeteries and our driver Derek
explained why the tombs are above ground: the whole area is below
sea level, so the ground is saturated with water and people do not
want to bury their loved ones in those muddy conditions.
After arriving
at the Marriott and picking up my credential, I had several hours
of free time before the day’s NBA activities formally began.
I decided to explore the French Quarter on foot. Louisiana has a
rich basketball legacy that includes the likes of Bob Pettit,
Pistol Pete Maravich and Karl
Malone but it has an even older chess legacy that dates
back to New Orleans-born Paul Morphy, whose career
eerily foreshadowed Bobby Fischer’s: both
earned recognition as the best chess player in the world before
abandoning the game and spending their latter years struggling with
mental illness. The current king of chess in New Orleans is chess
master Jude Acers, who has held court in the French Quarter for
decades, taking on all comers. I hoped to challenge him to a game
but alas I apparently just missed him on this day, arriving at the
Gazebo restaurant on Decatur Street just moments after he packed
up his board and left. I hung around for a while because some of
the locals thought that he might return; at the Gazebo I enjoyed
one of the juiciest, best tasting hamburgers I have ever eaten but
Acers did not come back and I soon resumed my explorations.
The French Quarter
was not directly hit by Hurricane Katrina but of course its impact
was heavily felt there because people who worked and shopped there
were displaced—including Acers and many others. You can learn
a lot about what New Orleans’ citizens are thinking by reading
the slogans on various t-shirts that are being sold in the French
Quarter. My favorite reads simply “Recover, Rebuild, Re-New
Orleans.” Some of the slogans are funny, if slightly politically
incorrect (“Beer…Helping White Men Dance Since 1842”).
Malapropisms prompted by drunkenness are a frequent theme (for example,
“Officer, I swear to drunk I am not God”). Many of the
slogans are definitely not safe for work (or this site), but I can
clean one of them up enough to convey its flavor: “Fema Evacuation
Plan: Run (expletive deleted) run.”
Although I did
not meet Acers, I encountered a very talented artist of a different
kind: William Warren, who is a proud member of
the Jackson Square Artist Colony. Warren explained that the roots
of the colony date back as far as the Civil War era, “probably
making it the oldest outdoor art colony in the United States.”
Warren studied at the Rhode Island School of Design but 10 years
ago he relocated to New Orleans for two reasons: the existence of
the vibrant art colony and the opportunity to do more outdoor painting
due to the more temperate nature of the city’s climate. Members
of the colony must purchase licenses from the city of New Orleans.
The cost is not high but one of the provisions of the agreement
between the colony and the city is that the artists will only produce
original, handmade work—no machine made or mass produced items.
Warren describes the colony’s mission: “Promoting and
preserving the art of painting and drawing.” He says that
a hand painted image is different than the mechanical image produced
by a camera because it is organic and vibrant and conveys emotion
instead of being a precise, by the numbers depiction.
While Warren
spoke with me he continued to paint one of a series of works that
he is doing about the city’s lamp posts. He does not like
the fluorescent bulbs that the city sometimes places in these old
fixtures, so his paintings depict a burning flame shining brightly,
an example not only of the triumph of the organic (fire) over the
mechanical (a light bulb) but also symbolizing his hopes for the
city’s revival. Watching him work, I commented that it seems
to me that the artist differs from the average person in both his
heightened visual perception and his ability to use his fine motor
skills to accurately portray what he sees. Warren agreed with this
observation and added, “The hand is being lost to the computer.”
He is disappointed that a greater emphasis is not placed on art
in the schools.
New Orleans
is a very compact city where it is much easier to get around on
foot or via public transportation than by car and this is even more
true now with so many people arriving in town this weekend. The
Marriott literally sits on the border of the French Quarter and
it is a brief walk away from the massive Ernest M. Morial Convention
Center, host of NBA All-Star Jam Session. If you are able to make
it to New Orleans during All-Star Weekend but cannot score tickets
to the big game or the side events then Jam Session is a wonderful
alternative. Current and former players are available for demonstrations
and autograph sessions and there are numerous opportunities for
fans young and old alike to participate in various interactive basketball
activities. The Jam Session site also hosts events like the NBA/National
Wheelchair Basketball Association All-Star Wheelchair Classic and
the Legends Shootout.
I wrote about
the Wheelchair Classic last year and was so impressed by what I
saw that this has become a can’t miss event for me. The participants
are selected by the NWBA and comprise the top players from its teams;
this year, Christina Ripp became the first woman
to qualify for the game. The West All-Stars defeated the East All-Stars
64-57, with Bobby Nickleberry—who makes Wes
Unseld-like outlet passes—winning East MVP honors
and the sharpshooting Chuck Gill winning West MVP
honors. I had the good fortune of watching most of the game while
sitting next to Susan Katz, the communication coordinator
of the Lakeshore Foundation. Katz played wheelchair basketball for
the University of Illinois and won a Paralympics gold medal as a
member of Team USA in 2004; her insights and patient explanations
greatly increased my understanding of the strategic aspects of wheelchair
basketball. Most of the rules of the game are the same; two differences
are that offensive players are allowed to stay in the lane for four
seconds and the ballhandler is allowed two “pushes”
of his chair for each time he dribbles the basketball.
The obvious
limitation that wheelchair athletes face is not being able to jump
but Katz mentioned to me that the lack of lateral mobility is a
key element in wheelchair basketball strategy. Players have to spin
and/or travel in an arc to move from one side to the other, so the
back pick is a devastating weapon in wheelchair basketball and if
it is properly executed it always leads to a wide open shot. She
noted that at the highest levels of the game the players have such
great chair skills and speed that this advantage is minimized somewhat,
much like how the opening to get a shot off in the NBA is very small.
The legs are
the most important part of the shot for a jump shooter. Obviously,
wheelchair athletes have to rely on different sources of power.
During halftime of the game, Jeff Griffin and Trooper
Johnson set official Guinness World Records for most free throws
made in one minute by a wheelchair athlete (25 each), as certified
by Stuart Claxton, a Guinness World records representative
who was present on site. Katz graciously arranged for me to speak
with both athletes. I asked them if they had played basketball prior
to their injuries. Johnson told me, “I played mostly football
before my accident but I’ve been playing sports all of my
life so once I had my car accident the transition back into sports
and athletics was natural.”
How did they
make the adjustment to shooting without using leg power? Johnson
answered, “It’s something that you just get used to.
You start understanding that all of the power has to be generated
by your arms and once you get used to the form from sitting in the
wheelchair it’s just repetition, like anything else; the more
you do it, the better you get at it and the stronger you get at
it.” Players must deal with both muscular and cardiovascular
fatigue during games. Johnson noted, “If you don’t maintain
your hydration level then you will get cramps. You also have to
work on your cardio so that you don’t get winded on the court.”
Like Johnson, Griffin was a football player prior to his injury,
playing wide receiver at the junior college level. “Like Trooper
said, I got hurt but my competitive drive continued. Being able
to compete in a wheelchair against other guys who are in similar
situations is just a great opportunity to keep that drive going.”
Griffin dismissed my question about the difficulty of learning how
to shoot from a wheelchair by saying simply, “When you are
competitive you find a way. You find a way to adapt.” Echoing
Katz’ observation about back picks, Griffin told me that even
though he had played some competitive basketball prior to his injury
that he never fully understood the pick and roll play—and
how it can help you get a shot off against a player who is more
athletic--until he started playing wheelchair basketball. Johnson
added that able-bodied players can grab jerseys and fight their
way through picks but, as Katz suggested, when a wheelchair athlete
is picked then he stays picked for several seconds.
This year’s
Legends Shootout featured George Gervin, Detlef
Schrempf, Jo Jo White and defending champion
David Thompson. The contest consisted of shooting
from racks located on each baseline and at the top of the key. The
players could shoot 20 foot jumpers but Schrempf elected to shoot
legit NBA threes. He and Gervin advanced to the Finals, where Gervin
won after Schrempf missed a “money ball” that could
have potentially tied the score.
David Friedman's
work has appeared in Hoop, Basketball Digest, Sports Collectors
Digest and Tar Heel Monthly. He wrote the chapter on the NBA in
the 1970s for the anthology Basketball in America: From the Playgrounds
to Jordan's Game and Beyond (Haworth Press, 2005). Check out his
basketball blog at 20secondtimeout.blogspot.com
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